Surfing is like nothing else. It's frozen hands and fumbling keys. It's being cleaned up by a closeout and coming up laughing. Surfing is rubber arms and a dry wetsuit. It's the first duck dive on a cold morning. It's hot food, car heaters and the smell of coffee. Surfing is paddling out somewhere you've never been. It's step-ups, broken boards and long swims. It's "How is it?" and "Had a couple?" Surfing is sitting in the lineup alone under a pale winter sun. It's talking story in the car park later. It's the promise of warm water five hours away. Surfing is knowing that it's winter somewhere. Surfing is who we are...
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